CAMINO DE SANTIAGO - PART 12 - CASTROJERIZ - FROMISTA - CARRION DE LOS CONDES

The walk from Castrojeriz started with a steep climb up to Alto de Mostelares. It was, again, a beautiful morning. I met up with Susie and KKin at the top of the climb and officially met Philipp there as well. The view was incredible. We walked on and came to a coffee stop on the side of the road. It was just a little stall set up for passing pilgrims. Being the chivalrous individual that he is, Philipp bought me a cup of coffee. When we had finished our coffee, I saw that the man running the stall was filling the urn with water running out of an old pipe that came out of the side of the hill. I am a little paranoid about drinking water but remained calm until Susie announced that she had read that the water source was called “lice fountain”.  I am not sure if I have mentioned this before but it is important to maintain a sense of humour at all times! Alas, it was a most memorable coffee stop. The path then drops back down on to the Meseta and is then pretty much flat until Fromista. I loved the wide open spaces of the Meseta - not much beats open spaces and big skies for me. The photo below was taken just before that descent.

I stayed in the private albergue in Fromista. It was great as there were very few of us staying there so it was nice and quiet. I had supper with Philipp and Eve, a Frenchman who was starting his walk from Fromista, having reached there on his previous walk. It was a really good evening. 

The following morning was icy cold. I opted to walk along the river, via Villovieco. I am glad I did as that is where Pepe was standing handing out sweets to passing pilgrims. I don’t know what it was about Pepe but, as Kevin would say, I left him a little misty eyed. Pepe wrote in my Credencial - translated into english “do good and be humble and the Father will protect you”. Meeting Pepe was a very good reminder of the power of a kind gesture and a hug.

Another highlight was seeing two big owls along the river. The birds along the Way were incredible. Such beautiful calls. Lots of nightjars early in the mornings and the “cuckoo clock” cuckoos during the day. The owls were special though. I caught up with them a few times. Each time they would just fly on a bit. Quite lovely.

Although it was a long day, the river walk was really pretty and made up for the last 6km into Carrion De Los Condes which got a bit monotonous. I chose the first albergue I got to, Santa Clara.  Carrion De Los Condes was a pretty town and while I was wandering around, I found  Susie, KKin, Dale and Kevin and had a great afternoon with them. We went to the Nun’s blessing at the Santa Maria albergue. Kristoff joined us there. The nuns sang and then gave a message about Light and Strength. Between the nuns and Pepe, a very emotional but special day.

We found a dinner spot, and with it Philipp and Eve, so all was good. Sharing a meal together at the end of